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Tuesday, Nov. 15, 2005

MERCURY now is retrograde, and as of Tuesday morning Paris time, Luna is about 12 hours from the Full, in the sign Taurus. For the past few days I've been noticing various dependable digital devices just stop working for no explainable reason in that peculiarly Mercury retrograde way. It is difficult to maintain that posture of "don't fix it if it's not really broken" and "stay calm because the main issue with Mercury retrograde is our mental level reaction to what goes wrong."

The Moon has been working its way through the remnants of the grand fixed cross since yesterday, perhaps stirring up some emotions and a little trouble.

According to The Guardian, French president Jacque Chirac admitted to a "profound malaise" in his society, of which the recent (and to some extent ongoing) riots are a result. I don't know where there is not a profound malaise in the world, but I have definitely noticed the French version, living in Paris more than a year.

Over time I've figured out that I'm different than most people, as in really different, and therefore respond to live differently; but living in a lot of different countries and regions over the past eight years has taught me a little about observing my environment. And I ask a lot of people how they experience the same places I do; the responses are often startlingly different.

What is really the most disturbing about people on the streets of Paris is how humorless they tend to be. This is a culture where it's appropriate to shut down tight. You don't say hello to people you don't know, or you're not supposed to. Yes, it happens, but the general grain of society is against it. Once you know someone a little, it's different, and it's different between men and women. As far as the guys go, once I've come back a few times, I can walk into a café and all the waiters say hello and shake my hand -- fulfilling the "fraternity" part of the national motto.

But you have to be a member of some in group to be accepted in this way, no matter how token or trivial that in group may be. Until then, you're looked down on, and this takes some getting used to. And generally "fraternity" does not breach the gender gap.

Contrast this with New York City, where everyone is basically on the same level. That's our version of the game of life. Sure, you put on your little psychic helmet to go out, but generally, as soon as someone talks to you, you're friendly, you respond in an affable way. And basically, few in Manhattan feel like they are in a position to take a huge attitude, beautiful women included. I like to joke about the time Frank Sinatra bought a hot dog from the Sabrett guy on 5th Avenue. He got in line just like everyone else.

I find it somewhat odd that the friendliest people on the streets of Paris are cops, judging from whether someone has their heart open or closed when they respond. I don't know if the typical "holier than thou" attitude, this bizarre refusal to smile back comportment of Paris, has always been so strong; people tell me it's just part of the environment. But it seems pretty thick, and it's taken me a long time to put it together that beneath it is insecurity, loneliness and the desire to break out and be authentic.

I've adapted to life in Paris by really pushing myself to do precisely this. I am fortunate to be a natural born politician and do my best to get to know everyone I encounter regularly, if just a little. I shake the hand of every dog (I am Mayeur des Chiens) and I refuse to play the game of glum. Sure, I can pout with the best of them. But I am thrilled to break the ultimate taboo of laughing out loud in public.

Just don't ride your motorcycle on the sidewalk anywhere near me, or you're going to get the speech of your life in my shitty French.

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